Derek Lam Creates Twisted, Naughty School Girls for FW 2012
Every season there are always a few shows that stick out in our minds, and a few of the inspirations behind the shows that make it extra-special. This season, we have a feeling that Derek Lam’s may just be one of those shows. The inspiration for the show was a “naughty student” described as girl who was a “bit intellectual, a bit eccentric, yet undone in a modern way.” She’s rebellious, but not in a bad way — in the way that she knows how to have fun, yet keep her head on her shoulders — and we’re loving the sounds of that.
Tom Pecheux led the makeup team for Estee Lauder, using the new Invisible Fluid Makeup (out in March) to give the girls a light, clear & matte satin base. He then groomed the brows and got to work on the eyes — the focus of the look. Tom used the Pure Color EyeShadow Palette in black and bronze as well as the Pure Color EyeShadow in Sugar Cube to create a burgundy/black smokey eye, working with the shape of each girls’ eye. He also applied a new two-tone eye-opening mascara in black/brown (available in April), with the black shade on the top and brown on the bottom, stating that black opens up the eyes and gives lashes a lift. To really make the lashes pop, he drew on a few lashes around the eyes as well. To finish the look, Tom applied a soft pink blush to the contour of the cheeks and mixed two lip shades — Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Pink and Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle to give the lips a pinky beige tone. He then dusted a touch of white shadow to the middle of the lips to keep the color matte and proper.
For the hair, Orlando Pita for T3 and Beauty.com chose to give the girls two different styles to play out the inspiration. For the “daytime” girl, the look was twisted up into a voluminous chignon, and for the nighttime look the girls hair was full at the top but pinned into a ponytail and left to hang. Orlando chose to contrast the norm in this way (we generally pull up our hair for a night out on the town, and leave it down for day) to mix things up a bit, describing this girl as having a bit of “a rebellious streak, and being an individual.” To get the look, Orlando added Phyto Volumizing Mousse to the hair and dryed with T3’s Evolution dryer, then used Phyto Workable Finishing Spray for all-over texture. To add more texture to the hair, Orlando used the T3 Whirl (an iron without a clamp) and then used Phyto’s Fiber Paste to make the hair very piecey. Lastly, he teased the hair from the root and pinned it in place (either fully into a chignon or at the nape of the neck for a pony depending on which girl it was).
Jin Soon Choi for Estee Lauder completed the look by using Nude Attitude on the nails, which is a sheer, soft pink shade. The modern chic color was applied with two coats and a top coat for a bit of shine.
