People Are Ditching American Manicures for Russian Manicures—But Derms Are Not Happy About It
Dry. E-file. Russian manicure. Whatever you want to call it, you’ve probably seen the nail trend blowing up on TikTok. The nail technique originated in Russia and has since gained popularity worldwide. In short, it is a meticulous and detailed approach to manicuring that focuses on cuticle care and nail shaping. Manicures last long and nails are painted closer to the skin. But just like most buzzy beauty treatments, it’s not without its controversies.
One swipe through TikTok and you’ll see the Russian manicure has a huge fanbase. “If you haven’t tried a Russian manicure, I highly recommend,” says TikTok user talia.dianee. “Everyone and their mom should get Russian manicures,” nmkajumulo says in her video. “It’s literally perfect every time,” says TikToker _gabbyhuffman. How can something loved by so many be such a major concern for medical professionals? We got to the bottom of it.
What Is a Russian Manicure?
Let’s go through the differences between a Russian manicure and the usual treatment you’d get at any typical nail salon. First, Russian manicures are sometimes referred to as “dry manicures,” because there’s no soaking involved. A nail tech (ideally one experienced in the technique) uses a nail drill and other special tools to remove all the skin around the nail bed, explains Kamola Malikova, founder of Minx Beauty Beverly Hills. “[The] signature [is] close to cuticle gel color application,” she says.
You’ll have to pay a bit more for a Russian manicure (they average between $70 and $125 nationwide) but they’re said to last 2-3 weeks “or even longer,” Malikova says. “It is a longer lasting (hence time-saving), aesthetically more pleasing (due to signature gel color application) technique.” Although it sounds like a no-brainer, there are actually some serious things you need to take into consideration before getting the treatment done.
Are Russian Manicures Safe?
Almost as often as you’ll see fans of Russian manicures rushing to their next appointment, you’ll see a medical expert—such as a dermatologist—with valid concerns. Dr. Azi, who goes by skinbydrazi on TikTok, reacted to the nail technique on her account—and you could say she’s not a fan. “That is the nail fold and you need that,” she says, watching a tech remove pieces of skin around the nail. “Cuticles are important, they serve a purpose,” she continues. “This is not dermatologist approved.”
Dr. Dana Stern, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Dana, agrees. “While I understand the appeal of certain trends, this one has me perplexed,” she says. “Complete removal of the cuticle if done repetitively will usually result in entry of yeast which results in a type of nail infection called a chronic paronychia. The cuticle is the nail’s natural protective seal. It is what prevents the entry of yeast and even bacteria into the nail unit.”
She warns that the videos you’re seeing on TikTok aren’t telling the whole story. “Many of the images that I have seen on social media that are posted to flaunt beautiful nails, in fact show nails with evidence of chronic paronychia,” she says. “While the polish may look impeccable, to the trained eye, I see signs of infection; puffy, pink, swollen nail folds.”
Dr. Dana also worries about tools not being properly sterilized, which is more important than ever since Russian manicures are considered “more aggressive than a typical manicure,” she says. Cutting areas like the nail folds can lead to “pigment changes to the skin especially in darker skin types,” she adds.
Manicurists like Malikova stress the safety of Russian manicures with real experts like themselves. This isn’t the kind of nail trend you can try at just any salon. Nail artist Aaliyah Smith, also known as NailBiz, in Las Vegas, Nevada, doesn’t offer the service. Additionally, she recommends checking with your local board of cosmetology to find a licensed nail technician. “It should only be performed by a licensed nail technician whose state allows it due to the fact that the breakdown of the nail plate can be quite complex,” she says. “Also many states in the U.S. restrict the use of an e-file (drill) to only the nail plate and other states require special medical license.”
As with any trend, it’s important to know the pros and cons so you can make the right decisions to keep yourself safe.
