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The battle of how to make fine hair look thicker has been going on since the dawn of time, and we’re here to help you win the war. This might sound just a bit dramatic, but as most know, those with fine, seemingly lifeless hair know this is a serious struggle—and rarely do we ever come out on top. Fortunately, with a decent amount of willpower and a few key products, there are plenty of beginner-friendly ways to get the thicker, super-full, and bouncy strands of your dreams.
Just like other hair types and textures, fine hair is largely determined by genetics. However, Jay Small, a trichologist and co-founder of Arey, says these characteristics aren’t “fixed for life” and that hair can fluctuate, depending on lifestyle, environmental, and health factors. “As we age, nutrient deficiencies, stress, and hormonal shifts can significantly influence how thick or resilient our hair appears.” Small explains that individuals who are nutrient-deficient or taking certain medications may notice slower growth, finer strands, or increased brittleness. “In many cases, this can be improved with targeted supplementation, scalp-focused topical treatments, or adjustments to medication under medical guidance.”
As a trichologist, Smalls treats a lot of patients with thinning hair concerns, which can often result in finer strands. “One of the most common contributors I see to changes in hair thickness is hormonal imbalance,” he notes, explaining that hormones such as DHT play a major role in hair density. “When DHT levels are elevated or when follicles are especially sensitive to it, the follicle can gradually shrink.” As a result, those smaller follicles create finer strands of hair with shorter growth cycles, which means they might not grow as long or as full as they once did. “Without addressing or balancing the underlying hormonal activity, these hairs can continue to become finer over time,” Smalls adds.
Hair that isn’t already fine to begin with can also appear finer due to chemical, environmental, and mechanical stress. “Unlike skin, the hair you grow today remains with you for years, depending on its length,” Smalls notes. He explains that styling and lifestyle habits like repeated coloring, highlighting, heat styling, blow drying, and UV exposure can reduce the diameter of each strand. “For clients already prone to fine hair, these external stressors can make a noticeable difference in fullness and overall hair health.”
Whether you were born with fine hair or your hair has become thinner over time, there are some ways to create the illusion of a thicker, fuller ‘do while also supporting hair health. Here are expert-approved fine hair hacks for making strands appear thicker and more voluminous.
If you’re concerned about shedding, scalp health, or hair growth, a scalp serum might change the game for you. Over-the-counter options such as the Vegamour GRO+ Advanced Hair Serum can create an optimal environment for hair health, which can lead to hair growth. Additionally, these types of scalp serums are typically formulated to reduce shedding and give the roots a density boost.
Since fine hair is more prone to breakage, Smalls says to try to minimize stress from chemical treatments and daily styling. “Limiting bleaching, permanent coloring, and other chemical treatments can help preserve the strength and thickness of finer strands,” he explains. “These services typically require a developer that opens the hair’s cuticle to change its color, and repeated exposure can gradually weaken the fiber.”
If you heat style your hair, it’s always best to shield strands with a heat protectant spray, such as the Olaplex Volumizing Blow Dry Mist, and try to extend the life of your style as much as possible. Some hair styling tools, like the Dyson AirWrap or T3 Aire 360 can also reduce damage while still giving you a salon-worthy look.
Some things you don’t think twice about might be causing more harm than good. This is particularly true for how you handle wet hair. According to Smalls, hair is significantly more elastic when wet, and it can stretch nearly twice as much as when dry. This makes it much more vulnerable to breakage if not handled gently. “Rough detangling, brushing, or aggressive blow-drying while the hair is sopping wet can compromise its integrity over time,” says Smalls. “Instead, gently towel-blot, use a wide-tooth comb or detangling brush, and allow the hair to partially air dry before applying heat.”
If you’ve noticed your hair appears flatter a few days post rinse and repeat, it’s because grease can literally weigh your hair down. But, it’s not enough to wash your hair with anything—you’ll want to choose the right shampoo for your needs. “What most people don’t realize is that the scalp ages six times faster than the skin on our face,” says Smalls, adding that the products we use can play a major role in that. With that in mind, he recommends using a proactive shampoo that supports scalp health, encourages hair growth, and enhances the volume and texture of the hair you already have. “When the scalp is balanced and nourished, the hair naturally lifts and styles with much more ease.”
When it comes to products for fine hair, Virtue is one of our go-tos—and we love the Full Shampoo, which is a lightweight formula that helps literally build volume. We also love the JVN Embody Volumizing Shampoo, which clarifies the scalp and instantly strengthens strands with hemisqualane.
Healthy hair requires ample nutrients. Even if your fine hair is genetic and not caused by any external factors, ensuring your body has the proper nutrients needed to produce healthy and thick hair is essential. “Vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants play a key role in supporting the hair growth cycle and the follicle’s metabolic activity,” says Smalls. As the founder of Arey, he recommends Not Today, Grey because “it provides a well-balanced blend of nutrients designed to support overall hair growth and resilience from within.” We’re also big fans of the Nutrafol Hair Growth Nutraceutical, which has helped support our fine hair by not only promoting growth but reducing breakage, too.
In addition to styling, daily stressors such as UV exposure can also wreak havoc on fine hair and, according to Smalls, can “weaken the fiber, gradually decreasing thickness and making it harder to achieve volume.” Because of that, it’s worth using a lightweight, non-greasy UV protectant such as Arey Live In Mist or R+Co Sun Catcher Power C Nourish + Refresh Styling Spray. Covering hair up with a UPF-rated hat like the Solbari Ultra Wide Brim Hat UPF 50+ can also keep locks protected.
The way you style your hair can give you tons of volume—even if it is super fine. For an instant lift, “flip your head upside down when blow-drying,” says hairstylist Mia Santiago. You can also use a volumizing blow-dry spray such as the Lolavie Peptide Plumping Volume Spray. And, investing in a high-quality blow dryer with enough power to lift those strands also helps. We love the Laifen Swift Se Lite High Speed Hair Dryer.
If you want to create the illusion of thicker hair, Santiago has a genius parting hack. Instead of a straight part down the middle—or even down the side—she recommends using the power of “a zig-zag part to fake thickness.” With Y2K and early 2000s fashion back in style, this will even elevate your ‘do with some added interest and make even a straight style appear more unique.
When styling fine hair, it’s sometimes not enough to simply blow it out with a round brush. For extra oomph, Santiago says to use “velcro rollers at the top section for 10 minutes,” calling this trick “old-school magic.” If you’re in a hurry, you can use the Kitsch Volumizing Roller Clips on your front top section for added lift around your hairline.
Fine hair is likely to fall and not hold style as well as thicker textures, so finishing off your hairstyle with some volumizing hairspray like Sexy Hair Big Spray And Play Hair Spray or Matrix High Amplify Proformance Hair Spray can help you keep everything in place and might even give you a better lift, too.
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