Skincare Trends 2024: Peptides, Retinol Sandwiches, & Snow Mushrooms

Double Cleansing

While double cleansing isn’t anything new, Dr. Zion Ko Lamm, a board-certified internal medicine physician, believes even more people will see the importance of it. “For any day you are wearing sunscreen and/or makeup, start your bedtime skincare routine with a double cleanse,” she said. “Begin with an oil-based cleanser to melt away makeup, sebum, and the day’s grime. Then, bring in the water-based cleanser which eliminates any remaining impurities, ensuring a more comprehensive clean. Keep in mind, we are not just cleansing; we’re setting the stage for each product that follows.”

Retinol Sandwich

We love retinol for the way it increases skin cell production and unclogs pores. But it doesn’t always love us back. Doing the “retinol sandwich” technique can help, Dr. Zion said. “Before applying retinol to your skin, start with a moisturizing cream,” she said. “Studies have shown that this base layer of moisturizer does not dilute or reduce retinol’s efficacy. Instead, this method helps your skin ease into the new retinol vibe, minimizing irritation without cutting down on the power. It’s like giving your skin a gentle, loving hug while letting retinol do its thing.”

Slugging

Slugging became popular in 2023 but will continue to gain speed in 2024. And for good reason! “I used to think of slugging as a ‘worst case scenario’ when I applied an occlusive moisturizer/petroleum jelly to my face as the last step of my routine,” Dr. Zion said. “Now that it’s winter, it’s the final step in my nighttime skincare practice. By using an occlusive moisturizer at night, we prevent transepidermal water loss, seal in moisture, help repair our skin barrier, and soothe chapped skin. Just remember to avoid using irritating actives like retinol underneath.”

Skincare expert and celeb makeup artist, Brett Freedman, agrees. “Dry skinned peeps are loving this dollop of soothing hydration,” he said. “I’m voting for the Weekend Rest style. No treatment on Friday and Saturday eves. Just a soothing moisture hug slug! Let skin plump up and take a breather. My personal fave is FarmHouse Fresh’s Field of Dreams Matcha Moisturizer. ”

Gentle Exfoliation

We’re exfoliating our skin in 2024 but without damaging its moisture barrier. “Nuts and bolts wise I think exfoliation is still going to be a mainstay,” Freedman said. “The twist is that it’s going to be gentler and really built into the skincare routine. You can’t beat a good cell turnover moment. Less downtime is the key.”

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is the powerhouse ingredient Freedman sees more and more folks incorporating into their daily routines. “The gentle boost of brightening is now understood. It’s a long game,” he said. “The plus side is no downtime…but patience is key.” He uses FarmHouse’s Fresh Vitamin C Booster on his face, neck, and tops of arms/hands to “downplay dark spots and add elasticity.”

Peptides and Proteins

Looking for a skincare alternative to Botox? According to cosmetic chemist and BeautyStat founder Ron Robinson, peptides just might be the answer. “Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins that are critical for making skin function at its best,” he said. “There are many different types of peptides used in skincare, from those that act as messengers to signal your cells to stimulate collagen and elastin to neuropeptides, which are peptides that signal your facial muscles to relax so as to smooth out wrinkles.”

“Though neuropeptides are not new, I’m seeing some big innovations in these peptides that may deliver more significant results than the current neuropeptides on the market,” he added. It’s all part of a larger understanding of skin proteome. “We do know that certain topical skincare ingredients can stimulate proteins like collagen,” he continued. “But the field of proteomics is important because this may lead to the discovery of new and novel active ingredients that might also stimulate the production of these key skin proteins.”

New Versions of Old Favorites

Robinson said we’ll also see some of the same old ingredients — vitamin C, retinoids, and hyaluronic acid — take a backseat to some new and innovative ones. “We are starting to see newcomer ingredients that claim to be better than these,” he said. “Malassezin or astaxanthin claim to have more antioxidant power than the essential vitamin C.” Plus, “azaleic acid, peptides, alfalfa extract, and bakuchiol” have the ability to provide “retinoid-results without the dreaded irritation,” he continued. Finally, “polyglutamic acid and snow mushrooms both claim to be able to absorb multiple times more water than the classic hyaluronic acid,” Robinson said.